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All's Well in Brockwell
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onionbag blogger
Thursday 3 May, 2004


English rose

Brockwell Park was my first introduction to London running. Being a country boy and accustomed to open lanes, I legged it down Brixton Hill one Saturday morning (ahh, those were the days, being able to leg it...), took a few random turns and ended up in a wonderful vast green oasis, right in the middle of all the SW9 mad, mad energy.

Ten years later and I'm still finding new features and parts of the park. The Lido is an obvious homing point and worthy of a post all of its own, once the sun decides to put its hat on that is. Worth mentioning in passing though that after a few local difficulties (ha! putting it mildly), the Lido WILL be open for the season, hopefully within the week.

Here's the history lesson:

Hey nonny nonny. Got any Johnnies?

Built in 1811, Brockwell Hall was the home of John Blades, a wealthy glass maker. The adjacent land formed part of the estate and the park remained in the family until 1888 when the it was bought by the then London County Council for public use. And what fine public use this has been: Just under one hundred years later (1981), The Clash headlined a TUC organised Peoples March for Jobs gig. I bet the old glass blowing boy would have loved a bit of Julie's Been Working for the Drugs Squad blasting out from his front lawn.

Following fire damage in 1990, Brockwell Hall has recently been restored and serves as a decent (ish) cafe at the peak of the hill. I'd say bring yer own sarnies though.

A walk around Brockwell Park can be tiring. That's why I cycled, as the perimeter provides a perfect track for those fond of two wheels.

Entering the park at the Cold Water Lane entrance (River Effra bordered up below ground), I headed up the hill and past the hideous Brockwell Gate development; this private estate is a gated community in every sense; sold as 'prime location' (i.e. wake up with a view over the park, um, just like the council rented property right next door then), a one bedroom flat will set you back the best part of £170, 000. One bedroom said it all for the useless tossers no doubt wanting to buy into their own bit of Brixton gentrification.

The view from the Brixton Hill peak of the park gives you all of London up for grabs; Crystal Palace to the south, heading eastwards and Canary Wharf, look out to The City in the north, move round for the BT Tower and the West End and then a full circle taking in the majestic Battersea Power Stattion down south again. No sign of West London though. Just as we like it.

Peddling on the path back towards Brockwell Hall and you'll find (if you're lucky) the Enchanted Garden, a hidden walled garden of delight given a 'hands off' approach to gardening. Either that or Lambeth Council still hasn't resolved the park maintenance problems.

Looking very much like the garden from Villa Vignamaggio in Branagh's Much Ado About Nothing, rows of wild flowers, sculptures and even a periscope are to be discovered if you want a lost afternoon. Or a cheap kiss and cuddle as the Brixton yoof were making merry on almost every park bench.

Hey nonny nonny. Got any Johnnies?

Heading back down to the south end of the park and a recent addition is the Brockwell Railway. Nothing to do with the Eurostar that powers through the adjacent Norwood, but a miniature stretch of track taking you from the South entrance to the edge of the Lido.

Brockwell Park also boasts the usual park pastimes such as bowls, tennis, football pitches, basketball courts, a cricket wicket, a BMX track, a playground and even a community greenhouse. Ideal conditions for growing the local speciality... Um, cucumbers of course.

The best introduction to the Park is to get yourself there for the weekend of 17 and 18 July for the lovely Lambeth Country Show. This is when ALL of the Borough comes out to play and is the highpoint in the South London Social Scene (forget Ascot, Henley and Lords, what you really want is a slightly less than legal 48 hours being mashed up in Brixton with some nose bleed D&B blasting your brain out).

Nowadays I find that I don't as much run around the park as let the park run around me. With so much to do and see, Brockwell Park competes for your attention with its views, activities and endless possibilities to waste away an afternoon.

Tiring work.

(click on thumbs to see large image)

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